Ranchlands: A stay at this working ranch in Wyoming goes beyond the cowboycore trend

“He’s so sweet,” says Lauren, who is showing me how to neck-rein, Goblin diligently weaving left to right under the slightest shift of her hand. I’ve never ridden Western-style before, and the aching in my knees swiftly reminds me I’m not a kid any more. But the colossal vistas on the ride to the Red Wall are a perfect tonic; an oil pastel scene of terracotta burnished cliffs jutting out against smudgy sagebrush plains. “If you think this is good, just wait until we head up to camp…