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Eating near the sea. Food served family-style. Not doing the dishes afterwards: across Australia, these are things that define a memorable summer meal. And should all these elements come together in the one place, then more’s the better. Which explains why the opening of Lontara on Rottnest Island in 2020 was such a big deal. (It didn’t hurt, of course, that Bali-based chef Will Meyrick was part of the project, which made Lontara, by default, the closest thing that Covid…
