Great cheddars to gorge on

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Cheddar is the most popular cheese in the UK and the second in the US. Valued at $3.6bn, the global cheddar market is projected to reach $5.4bn by 2032. And yet for all its familiarity, cheddar has an image problem. “Being generic it lacks a clear identity,” says Bronwen Percival of Neal’s Yard Dairy, co-author of Reinventing the Wheel: Milk, Microbes and the…