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“I’ve been cooking Indian food in its different avatars since 2007,” says Srijith Gopinathan, the award-winning chef-owner of the San Francisco restaurant Copra, “and I don’t think I’ve seen a better-balanced time for Indian cuisine in the last 20 years.”
Previously relegated to late-night takeout, the subcontinent’s food is becoming a more regular part of the American diet, and a steadily growing number of upscale Indian establishments are popping up across the…
