Exploring Germany’s bucolic Black Forest, made famous by fairytales

When the Romans pushed over the Alps 2,000 years ago into the area between Lörrach on Germany’s southern border with Switzerland, and Pforzheim to the north, they named the moody glades of deciduous trees and firs the silva nigra: the black forest. In many ways, though, the Schwarzwald, as the Germans call it, isn’t dark at all. Guests on the terrace of the Romantik Hotel Spielweg in the Southern Black Forest gaze up at the white vapour trails left by planes crisscrossing a swatch of…