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The exclusive members’ club, founded more than six decades ago and now housed on Berkeley Square, has always traded in a certain theatricality – lavish design, low lights, the hum of money well spent – yet what lay upstairs felt altogether different. Stripped of spectacle, it was a room arranged around ten counter seats and a single man: Endo Kazutoshi.
Kazutoshi, the third-generation sushi master behind the Michelin-starred restaurant Endo at the Rotunda, has decamped…
