Just outside the riverside village of Muker, with its tangle of stone cottages, are a dozen bumpy hay meadows. Now sadly rare in Britain, these protected fields erupt in seas of yellow, white and purple each June as wild buttercup, pignut and selfheal come into soul-lifting flower.
Muker and its meadows epitomise the Yorkshire Dales’ soft-edged appeal. This undulating clump of river-hugging valleys, or “dales” (deriving from an old Viking word), usually topped by toothy…

