Always judge a restaurant by its bread basket

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I can’t remember the last time I got served bread at a restaurant that was anything as simple as just “bread and butter”. Consider the toasted brioche-like Hokkaido milk bread at Osteria Angelina in Shoreditch, served with burnt honey and miso butter and rhubarb jam spiked with yuzu kosho. Or the acorn bread at Honeysuckle in Philadelphia, paired with a…