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Our GPS is having a meltdown. The disembodied voice – first authoritative, then confused, now desperate – is begging me and my Portuguese friend Diogo to take a different route, any route, that’s more direct, and simply can’t adapt to our circuitous journey. But a trip along Portugal’s N2 is the antithesis of a fast drive. This meandering road is Portugal’s spine, running north to south through the middle of the country from Chaves, near the Spanish border, to Faro, at the edge…
