Britain is obsessed with Basque cooking right now

Because a xikiteo (or bar hop) through Bilbao or San Sebastian, just after dusk, is the very definition of delight, stopping at one pintxos bar for gildas, (that divine, skewered trio of anchovy, olive and pickled chilli), another for bacalao, or salt cod, in some form or other, and solomillo, grilled slices of steak. Throw in a glass or three of txakoli (fizzy wine) or sagardoa (local cider), and a fat slice of Basque cheesecake, and all is well in the world. So it comes as no surprise that…