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The humble crumpet is posher than ever

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Crumpets, served every hour of the day, for every meal, are the star of the show at Willett’s – topped with gentleman’s relish; duck liver parfait and Yorkshire rhubarb; dressed Dorset crab; or penny bun mushroom and Wiltshire truffle

MATTHEW HAGUE

It’s quarter past seven on a Tuesday night when the polite waiter standing above me, pen poised and notepad at the ready, asks me what I’ll be ordering this evening. The menu at Sloane Street’s new British bistro, Willett’s, is laden with…

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