This remote camp on Europe’s most mysterious island may be the ultimate away-from-it-all escape

Berries found on a foraging trip

Elise Hassey

Reindeer kebabs with feta and avocado purée

Elise Hassey

On another day, we cruise by Zodiac to ogle the icebergs up close, as if visiting a sculpture park. There’s a dynamic stillness to them that appeals to our innate craving for both stasis and movement. Every shift in cloud and sunlight paints a different palette: pink and blue bergs in the golden evenings, then, on cloudy days, the grey skies are indistinguishable from the grey sea, and the…