Receiving a postcard feels sentimental and novel. These days, with Instagram and FaceTime, there seems to be no need to document far-flung adventures for friends and family. Who can be bothered with the painstaking quest to locate a stamp in foreign lands, anyway? And when it would arrive would be anyone’s guess. Delivery is much swifter at Lisbon’s famed Belcanto, where the postman masquerades as a white-gloved waiter.
“To start your Lisbon experience,” says my server Nelson,…

