Thankfully, the following day Nancy had a solution. Instead of staying in the Maasai Mara National Reserve, where my camp was based, she drove me into the neighbouring Mara North Conservancy, a privatised area neighbouring the Reserve. While it was still part of the same Mara ecosystem, there was one major difference: it was open to only a very small fraction of visitors – which luckily includes guests of Mara Toto Tree Camp. The contrast on that day couldn’t have been more striking:…

