What’s much harder, I think, is to put together a menu that artfully mixes high and low. That requires knowledge, confidence, and a no small degree of flair.
I was reminded of this the other night as I scanned the cocktail list at Osteria Vibrato, a fashionable new ‘old-style’ Italian in London’s Soho. There’s huge attention to detail at this restaurant, from the handmade pasta and the tip-top terrazzo flooring by Diespeker & Co to the choice of olive oils. Many of…

