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In Mayfair, amid art galleries, private clubs, and five-star addresses, a new ritual is playing out behind noren curtains and polished doors. The omakase counter—once the preserve of Tokyo’s most exclusive addresses—has become the hottest seat in London. And not just any counter, but the kind helmed by the most influential figures in modern Japanese cuisine, whose reputations were forged in Michelin-starred kitchens and whispered about in Manhattan boardrooms.
This spring,…
