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They had me with the grissini. Slender hand-rolled beauties, perfectly crisp and flavoured with rosemary, garlic and Parmesan, they’re served with artfully dishevelled folds of imported culatello and plump glistening olives stuffed with “caviar Calabrese”, a mix of preserved vegetables delicately heated with chilli. The attention to technique, texture and flavour immediately signals that Florentino’s new owners fully understand the brief.
Florentino has had just six…
