Every year, one of the wine magazines publishes a league of ‘Most Admired Champagne Brands,’ based on a poll of several hundred buyers, merchants, masters of wine, sommeliers, and drinks writers (including me). For the last seven years, the top spot has been taken by Louis Roederer – the family-owned champagne house which also makes Cristal.
It wins praise for the “quality and consistency of its wines,” its “attention to detail,” and…

