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“I don’t like Chardonnay, but I love Chablis,” is a sentence that Lucie Depuydt, head winemaker at J. Moreau & Fils, has heard spoken many times. “I think that most people don’t link Chablis with Chardonnay,” she adds, which is true outside of France, whose residents mainly still drink wine based on appellation rather than grape variety. As Laura…
