Front-of-house veteran Paul Guiney proved this to me recently at the wonderful South End, pouring a bottle of 2018 Yann Bertrand Morgon Dynamite that he’d brought up from his own private cellar. A wine he loved, but one he admitted he was no longer drawn to in quite the same way.
To me, the Gamay was pure magic, but tastes evolve. Ask around: you’ll find plenty of seasoned collectors sitting on cellars full of solemn bottles they no longer actually care to drink.
And it’s not only our…

