Inside Norway’s most remote island retreat: monastic suites, kelp forests and the midnight sun

Heeding the call, I set out on one of Ytri’s swish custom speedboats with Anders Budde, a water engineer who moved to Træna seven years ago. He’s now one of the hotel’s two activity guides and a freediver who plucks the scallops and kelp served in the restaurant from the ocean bed. Sanna is one of the oldest inhabited islands in the north. At the Kirkhelleren – church cave – a colossal yawn in the mountainside visible from afar, fish hooks and tools dating back at least 9,000…