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For most diners, caviar appears at the end of its journey. It arrives chilled and carefully presented, often with a sense of ceremony that can make it feel more like a trophy than something to eat. Between us, we have spent decades in fine dining—tasting, sourcing, and serving caviar in many forms. We understand its rituals and pleasures, but until recently, we had never seen where it comes from.
Earlier this year, we decided to change that. We traveled to Tbilisi, Georgia, to…
