In 2007 his eponymous Midtown restaurant (which first opened in 2004) entered the inaugural New York City Michelin guide with a knock-out two stars. Two years later, it did the triple and got its third Michelin star, making it the first Japanese restaurant in the US to receive the guide’s top award. (Eagle-eyed among you will note that after 15 years at the top, in the 2025 guide it was docked down to two stars amid a nation-wide Michelin shake-up).
This month, though,…

