The Gospel of St John: how one restaurant changed London’s dining scene

Some revolutions are explosive, cathartic affairs, transitioning from old to new in spectacular fashion. In others, the seismic changes happen so quietly as to go unnoticed at first, as was the case in London’s fine dining scene, which can trace its silent revolution to 1994 when Trevor Gulliver and business partner Fergus Henderson – often considered the daddy of modern British cuisine – opened St John in a former smokehouse in Smithfield, east London, with little fanfare.

Their…