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About 80 per cent of people live under light-polluted skies, and the Milky Way is no longer visible to a third of us. But here in Lake Takapō, one of the darkest places in the world, the Milky Way ripples like a luminous ribbon. Nearby, the hook of the scorpion tail signifies the Scorpius constellation and the ubiquitous Southern Cross – seen on flags and emblems around the Southern Hemisphere – shines bright. It’s midnight, and I’m standing on a mountain in a vacuum of darkness and…
