There is also excellent food – and people-watching – to be had at Platis Gialos, a long, shallow strip of sand lined with beach bars and restaurants. You might even spot Tom Hanks at Omega3, a tiny fish and wine bar where it’s worth wrestling the competition for a stool. Here, the seafood (much of it harpooned by the owner, Vasilis Vlachogiorakis) is cured, caramelised, smoked and cooked sous-vide.
On Saturday evening, everyone hits Apollonia, the lively hill-top capital, for a night…

