No matter what city I find myself in, I end up unwittingly playing a silent olfactory game: Name that Le Labo terroir. There was a steady period in the 2010s when San Francisco’s Mission District smelled like weed, dog pee, and Santal 33. Not long after that, I would walk through corners of Brooklyn that oozed street trash and Rose 31. Lately, I’ve been to restaurants in Los Angeles where it smells like everyone passed around a bottle of Thé Matcha 26 to pair with whiffs of the fragrant…

