Las Vegas is a collection of contradictions. An oasis of hospitality; a labyrinthian casino. A poolside cabana; heatstroke on a sidewalk. A jackpot; an empty bank account. It’s the greatest night of your life; it’s the worst mistake you’ve ever made. Still, most people come here in search of the same thing: a good time.
In 2015, I moved from the woods of Montana into an apartment directly behind a Las Vegas casino, as one does. I had been working in the national parks and wanted to live in…

